Дата публикации: 2017-10-23 05:59
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On early models, removing the backing plate and axle is somewhat unnecessary, but you should go this far anyway to reseal the area where grease can leak between the backing plate and axle housing flange and also make sure you have the right amount of shims to properly load the axle bearings.
Reassemble with some Permatex Ultra Blue silicone RTV on all flange faces and wherever grease could leak out. The Permatex non-hardening form-a-gasket works fine, too. Use sparingly. Too much sealer just oozes out all over and is wasted as well as being ugly and possibly screwing up the bearing load you just worked so hard to set.
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You can see the coil mounted on top of the distributor. The coil you see in the photograph does not work. This tractor has the original six volt positive ground system. The coil failed and Dad wired in a six volt tubular coil that he mounted to the side of the engine. My Dad was a smart man and he knew how to arrive at a solution to a problem. A new top mount coil for an 8N is around $ and I would not be surprised if Dad did not already have a six volt coil on hand. I would like to replace the coil, but spending $ is a bit more than my finances can allow when the tractor runs fine with the replacement that Dad added.
The 8N9789 cork gasket goes over the axle between the axle bearing and the hub. The 8N9775 cork gasket goes between the brake shoe pivot plate and the retainer/seal assembly. Use Ultra Blue there, too.
The photographs above show the replacement kit and the contents of the kit. My local tractor supply shop had the replacement kit in stock, but I found the same kit on eBay at a $ savings. In the bottom photograph from left to right, the points set, the rotor, and the condenser at the bottom you can see a small washer, a split pin, and a gap gauge for setting the points. Once you remove the old parts, the new parts go back exactly the same except in reverse order.
Sunday I had intended to take the time to replace the points and condenser in the distributor of the 6999 8N Ford tractor I use to plough the veggie gardens and finish replanting the hostas that I had not manage to finish on Saturday. However, Sister #9 rang and wanted to know if I could come down and help her. She had gotten a new grass mower and I could have her old one if I helped her set up the new one. She also needed a bit of help putting down soaker hoses in her Iris bed and a few other odds and ends. She also had an Angel's Trumpet she had rooted during the winter and I could pick it up as well. After the work, we planned on having a nice dinner of grilled tuna steaks with suitable sides and a nice white wine.
Put pressure on the puller and tap the hub. Some are really on there and I've even had to resort to heat from a torch to get them to pop loose. This is a good thing. If the hubs are tight they are nearly always still good. If the hubs are loose when you start they are most likely worn out already. Once it's off, remove the 6 bolts holding the retainer and seal assembly and pull it off. The brake shoe pivot plate will come off now. Remove the last 7 bolts from behind (tractor side) and pull the bearing retainer and backing plate and slide the axle out to get access to the inner seal ('55-'57). Remove and replace the inner seal.